Linen Hudson Pants


 

I can hardly say enough good things about these linen joggers. I just LOVE them and have been wearing them nonstop since they came off the sewing machine!

I used the True Bias Hudson Pants patterns and sized up two sizes to compensate for the woven fabric. I already owned this pattern in tissue, which I had cut out in my size to make my first pair of French terry joggers. You should have seen me trying to add back in the additional two sizes while cutting out the pants - actually you can see a reel on my Instagram account. Its kind of hilarious in retrospect, even if it wasn't too funny at the time!

I also increased the ankle cuff pattern pieces to 12" x 5" so I could fit my foot through the opening and use the same two inch elastic I used in the waistband. If I make woven joggers with this pattern again I would increase the length to about 14", allowing putting my foot through the opening a bit easier.



I used a shoelace purchased from Amazon for the drawstring and, since I wanted to make this a "luxe" look I splurged on gold aglets for the tips of the laces. I love how the coarse texture of the linen contrasts with the polished drawstring details.


To complete the look I traced off my favorite Athleta top and tried to recreate it with a complementing bamboo. I think the bamboo was just too heavy and this top feels too big, not to mention the hems on the body and sleeves aren't particularly pretty even though I used stabilizer. I may turn it inside out and pin out some of the excess material to try to salvage it because I'm not loving it right now.


Eversewn generously donated the sewing tools I used to make this "luxe for less" look. Thank you Eversewn! I love my new linen joggers, and am working on loving the top.

Patterns: True Bias Hudson Pant, Athleta dupe t-shirt
Size: 8 Hudson Pant
Time: Both garments were surprisingly fast sews, I would estimate I spent about 6 hours creating the whole look.

Cost to Make:
pattern - previously owned the Hudson Pant pattern ($18.50 value) and created the t-shirt pattern using my favorite Athleta t-shirt ($54.00 value)
fabric - $19.50 for 1 1/2 yards linen, $24.50 for bamboo yardage
elastic - $9.00 for 2" soft waisband elastic from JoAnn
shoelace and aglets - $7.00 for set of 55" shoelaces and $9.00 for 4 gold aglets
thread and stay tape from stash
TOTAL: $69 for the both pieces, a $141.50 value
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Baby A’s Easter Dress



I made the Little Lizard King's Monet for Baby A's first Easter dress because the shape closely resembles my new Essex Dress. I absolutely love how it turned out; she on the other hand could deal with less ruffles so close to her face. Ha!

This dress was a fairly simple sew and the cotton was a breeze to work with. I changed the top sleeve ruffle layer slightly by adding a seam in the middle to compensate for the directional print. Top stitching the ruffle sleeves down was a bit bulky and didn't look as crisp as I usually prefer although I don't notice that once Baby's in the dress.

I made a "hand stitch" boarder on the front bodice piece with my new Pfaff Expression 710. I was able to taper the stitch to 30 degrees at the corners and really like the delicate detail of the tone-on-tone stitches.


Three glass buttons up the back finish the dress and don't detract from the fabric or compete with the pattern details. However, the back placket on the skirt is my least favorite part of the dress. I found it hard to make the placket lay flat without a pucker at the bottom pivot point. Thankfully the skirt is gathered and hides this little imperfection.


Pattern: Little Lizard King Monet
Size: 12m
Time: Estimated 3-5 hours (who can tell with the interruptions of sewing around nap time?!)

Cost to Make:
pattern - $9.50
fabric - $16.00 (purchased on discount)
buttons and thread from my stash
TOTAL: $25.50
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Essex Dress in Cotton Poplin




I recently made the Essex Dress by Sewing and the City. I loved the style as soon as I saw it released late last summer and knew I would need to make one myself. In preparing to make this dress I searched Instagram for other people’s versions and their feedback. Many mentioned that it was a touch short and the V was a bit deep. I decided to address these common fit issues while cutting out my pattern. 

Based on my measurements I should have been a size six, but after reviewing the final garment measurements I decided to make a size two and I’m glad I did. (I decided this after a tissue fitting of the pattern. Thankful Sewing in the City includes cut and stitch lines on patterns!) I’m 5’1” and added one inch to the bottom of the skirts pieces. I wouldn’t want it any shorter! I also raised the fabric of the V by pivoting the front bodice piece on the upper shoulder point one inch from fold (at the deepest point of the V.) After a few pin fittings I also decided to raise the center seam 1 1/2”, which worked because I have a smaller bust. I’m very happy with the results and will make these adjustments again in the future.



I love working with all wovens, especially cotton shirting, because it isn’t slippery and can so easily be persuaded to do what you want it to do with a bit of steam. Cotton is a natural fiber and has great breathability and adaptability to climate, it deals with temperatures changes well. And as I’ve worn this cotton shirting I’ve found it wrinkle resistant too! 

I like to make blouses/tops and daily wear dresses with cotton shirting. It’s also great for little girl dresses, which I plan to be making a lot more of in the near future! The addition of bias binding to the flutter sleeves of this dress allow them to keep their shape and be a real statement! This fabric and notions were gifted to me by Style Maker Fabrics and you can learn more about cotton shirting on their blog here.




Pattern: The Essex Dress by Sewing and the City
Size: Two, lengthened on inch and adjusted neckline
Time: Estimated 5-7 hours with fitting and adjustments

Cost to Make:
pattern - $16
fabric - $30 value
bias tape - $6 value, 3 yards organic cotton bias tape
elastic - $2 value, 2 1/4 yards of 3/4" elastic
TOTAL: $56 VALUE
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Jasmine Blouse - Fayma Patterns


 

I recently tried out a new-to-me pattern company, Fayma Patterns, that creates custom sewing patterns for your unique body. Their tagline is "Size Me" and I was eager to try a bespoke pattern without all the rounds of tissue and pin fitting usually necessary for a good fit. To begin I made a profile on their website, but did also need to download the app to enter my body measurements. I waited until I was with my mother over the holidays so I could have help taking my measurement, hopefully with more accuracy, and uploaded my measurements as well as a few pictures of myself.

I chose the Jasmine Blouse for it's current style and the ability to test how well this custom garment fit me. When I received the files for the blouse they were all separate which I then compressed into one file to send to the printer. I needed to invest in an upgraded version of Adobe to do this, but that was preferable to the cost of printing each pattern piece separately.

Once I received the pattern I decided to do a tissue fit to make sure I had taken my measurements correctly. This process was made easier since Fayma prints the seam allowance on the pattern pieces and I was very happy with how the tissue fit. To stay organized I hand wrote what each pattern piece was on the pattern. Since this pattern is uniquely designed for my body each individual piece was cut from a single layer of fabric.



I used a floral Art Gallery rayon that I had been saving in stash for just such a make and accented the blouse with gorgeous antique buttons in two sizes. The Jasmine Blouse sewed up quickly, the instructions were very detailed, and I was very happy with the result. However, if I were to make it again I would straighten out the neck band a bit as I find it can fall forward due to the curved nature of the pattern piece. I would also extend the sleeve length since the cuffs don't allow the sleeves to ride up my arms and I find my movements restricted a bit.


The Jasmine Blouse looks great with both jeans and dress slacks. I'm looking forward to adding it to my spring wardrobe and I've already purchased the Nightly Walk Pants patterns, which would pair perfectly with this blouse. And can you imagine perfectly fitting pants right out of the gate?! I will be sure to let you know how I get on with them!

Jasmine Blouse styled with V9131 slacks

Size Me
Fabric: 1 1/2 yards Art Gallery Rayon
Time: Estimated 5-7 hours

Cost to Make:
discounted pattern and printing costs - $13.50 ($29 value)
    USE CODE: SEWHELPME25 for 25% off your purchase
fabric - $24
buttons and thread from stash
TOTAL: $53 VALUE
*Note: once pattern is purchased would need to repurchase if your size changed

This pattern was shared with me at a reduced cost and this post contains affiliate links. I love my Jasmine blouse and am looking forward to wearing it. Thank you for your support!

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Avery Leggings and Power Sports Bra Athletic Set


As soon as I learned about Destashify, a website for makers to buy and sell their unused supplies, I jumped right in. I had just had my colors done and was excited to purchase a few new fabrics that would highlight my best features. And while I was there I posted a few of my own unused supplies!

One of the fabrics I purchased was this nylon periwinkle blue Supplex knit, originally from Spandex World. According to the fabric description Supplex wicks moisture, dries quickly, and doesn't fade. It was 62" wide and just over a yard in length (41"). It was described as opaque with a dry hand and stretched at least 30% in both directions. I appreciated the fabric description and felt confident purchasing the fabric, especially since I had worked with Supplex before.

Since I am now a stay-at-home mother with an active baby I wanted to a pair of Avery Leggings in the ultra high rise. I have made the Avery Leggings in the past and loved how they fit, but forgot to read my notes from this make which indicated I would want to remove 1" from the top of the waistband. I am only 5'1" after all. And what do you know, I made them too tall. I also needed to shorten the elastic in the waistband for a more snug fit so I ended up cutting off the sewn on waistband and starting over. I love the final product and am glad I took the time to make them fit me correctly.


To complete the set I made the GreenStyle Creations Power Sports Bra in the same Supplex knit and lined it with a nude-to-me athletic knit from my stash. After taking my measurements I decided to make the 32D in the basic racerback view to check the fit. I was thankful to find Sewing with Sarah's YouTube video series which walked me through each step and was like sewing with a friend.

The Power Sports Bra is very comfortable to wear and I will certainly make it again. However, I do have a bit of rippling across the cup seams. Perhaps a slightly smaller cup size, or skipping the serging inside, would help to alleviate that. I will also pre-measure and grade out at the top of the bust where the straps attach in future makes. There was a bit of extra space there and my attempt to snug that up created some waves near my armpit. I'm excited to try the nursing version and some of the strappy options once I master the fit.



I love how comfortable this set is, both for chasing baby and finding my inner peace. I wear the leggings weekly and Very Peri is the Pantone color of the year!

Time estimate: 1 hour to cut each pattern, 2 hours to sew (and re-sew) the Avery Leggings and 3 hours to sew the Power Sports Bra for a total of 7 hours
Size: medium Avery Leggings (ankle length), 32D Power Sports Bra
Fabric: Supplex from Destashify
Care instructions: machine wash cold, line dry

Cost to Make:
Avery Leggings pattern - previously owned
Power Sports Bra pattern - won online
Fabric - $9
*yards of clear elastic, 1 1/2" woven elastic, athletic lining fabric, and thread from my stash
TOTAL: $9

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Halifax Hudson Lounge Set


As a fairly new stay-at-home mom I'm finding new wholes in my wardrobe that I didn't have in my professional wardrobe. These days I need outfits that make me look and feel put together while also being very flexible and easy to wash. In January I decided to make myself a lounge set in my colors, which I had done for a Christmas gift.

The first and most obvious hole in my wardrobe was my lack of joggers. I had seen a variety of other sewists make the Hudson Pants and knew I wanted to give them a try. I decided to use a pattern I already owned, the Halifax Hoodie, for the top of my lounge set because I had made it once before and loved it. I was thrilled to find this gorgeous See You at Six Ponderosa French terry and coordinating ribbed knit on June and Lu Fabric's site and knew it was exactly what I was looking for.

I made a straight size four in the Hudson Pants. The pattern calls for two inch elastic, but I used the one and a half inch elastic I could more easily source. This was a mistake I will not make again as I barely had enough room to sew the two channels for the drawstring. I'm glad the drawstring is functional on these joggers because, even though I measured, my elastic isn't quite tight enough. These were a quick and easy make, when baby girl let me set her down, and I was thrilled with how the ribbed knit enhanced the finished product. I will certainly be making more of these. And my husband liked them so much he has asked for his own pair!

I made the same version of the Halifax Hoodie that I had previously made, view D with the cowl neck. I really like this version because it gives me a bit more visual interest up top where I could use it. The French terry of the cowl lays very nicely and I would make this version again. I shortened the sleeves by two inches and they fit nicely, but I might only shorten them by an inch in the future. I wish I had also shortened the body of the sweater since I'm so short and to better highlight the waistband of the joggers. I did run out of ribbed knit and ended up only having enough for the back waistband of the sweater. I don't mind that little detail, although I wish I had sewn the ribbed portion to the front of the sweater. I used shoelaces for both drawstrings.



Time estimate: 1 hours to cut each pattern, 3 hours to sew each pattern for a total of about 8 hours to make this lounge set
Size: small Halifax Hoodie, 4 Hudson Pant
Fabric used: See You at Six Ponderosa Green French Terry (3 yards) and coordinating ribbed knit (1/2 yard, but needed more)
Care instructions: machine wash, cool, hang to dry

Cost to Make:
Hudson Pant pattern - $18.50
Halifax Hoodie pattern - previously owned
Fabric - $66 for the French terry, $11.50 for the ribbed knit
Elastic - $5 (purchased extra yardage)
Shoelaces - $14 (purchased two sizes)
*thread from my stash
TOTAL: $115
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