Palmer Pletsch Tissue Fitting - M6750

Palmer Pletsch Tissue Fitting - M6750



I recently had the opportunity to take a tissue fitting class with a local Palmer Pletsch certified instructor. I have been familiar with the tissue fitting method for some time, but wasn't familiar with the adjustments I needed to make in order to get a well fitted garment. With the help of my teacher I was able to make the best fitting button up I've ever worn!

I used the McCall's 6750 Palmer Pletsch button up shirt pattern for this class. The unique thing about using Palmer Pletsch patterns is they include fit lines on the tissue. These fit lines were an incredibly helpful tool as I learned how to make the adjustments I needed.

We started with taking new measurements for me, referencing the size and finished measurements on the pattern envelope, and rough cutting the pattern. Using a red colored pencil I marked seam allowances and pinned out the seam allowance and darts, then tried on the tissue. This first visualization helped me to identify a few fit issues including the need to bring the pattern waist line up to my natural waist and lengthen the bottom of the pattern to keep the original length. I also needed to do a sway back adjustment, bringing the tissue closer to my lower back.


Once these adjustments were made and taped out of my tissue I then needed to fix the darts, making sure they remained parallel to the grainline as indicated on the pattern piece. After making these initial adjustments it was time to cut out my fabric, pin out the seams and darts, and try it on again. The second fitting helped me see a few additional adjustments I needed to make, including a square shoulder adjustment to alleviate some fabric tension across the back of my neck. I also needed to shorten the sleeves, my right side slightly more than my left.


I ended up needing to cut a new back piece and re-pin for a final fitting. It was amazing how much better the final fitting was from the first, and I thought the first fitting was okay. I'm glad to learn how much better it can be! And the goal of sewing my own garments is to get a good fit.


I'm so thankful I took this class and learned how to get a better fit in my handmade garments. I'm looking forward to taking what I've learned and applying it to my future makes. And the silver lining, sewing with a local sewing friend!




Time estimate: 6 hours
Size: 8
Fabric used: cotton blend
Care instructions: machine wash cold, tumble dry low

Cost to make:
Pattern - $5
Fabric - gifted
*buttons, thread, and interfacing from my stash
TOTAL: $5
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Marissa
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Ogden Ida Swap 2019

Ogden Ida Swap 2019



I've had my eyes on the ogden cami pattern for well over a year now and added it to my 2019 Make Nine list hoping to inspire myself to finally get around to making it. Well, I haven't made many of my 2019 Make Nine sewing projects, but found this summer's Ogden Ida Swap to be just the inspiration I needed (with a deadline and a partner depending on me) to make the ogden cami!


I found this gorgeous rayon fabric on sale at JoAnn early in July. I knew this fabric would be a perfect match for the ogden cami as soon as I saw it and the colors would compliment most things in my wardrobe. I had to have it!

I purchased two yards of the fabric in order to make an ogden cami for myself as well as my swap partner. I used a simple black cotton blend from my stash for the lining to conserve as much of the fashion fabric as possible.


This pattern was very straightforward and satisfying to make. I sewed our ogden camis using French seams, which added a bit more time but was well worth it. French seams create a very professional looking finish and one I was happy to share with another sewist.


My husband and I recently traveled to South Korea and I was able to pack both the ogden cami I made for myself as well as the one I received in the swap. I was glad to have such easy and lightweight blouses with me; Korea was HOT!


Amy, of Amy Nicole Studio, made the floral ogden cami picture above for me and I couldn't be more happy to have received it. First, you know I love all things floral. Second, all those colors make this cami "go" with everything. Thank you for making such a beautiful garment for me Amy.

Amy's version is fully lined and used a rolled hem. I think I'll take a few hints from her when I make my next ogden cami. And rest assured, there will be more!

Time estimate: 6 hours (to batch sew 2 ogden camis)
Size: 4
Fabric used: 2 yards, 100% rayon purchased from JoAnn and 1/2 yard cotton blend from my stash
Care instructions: machine wash cold, gentle cycle; line dry

Cost to make two ogden camis:
pattern: $8.50 (plus marginal printing costs)
rayon fabric: $12
*used thread from my stash
TOTAL: $20.50, or $10.25/cami plus shipping costs for one cami
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Marissa
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Joey Tank - Pattern Test

Joey Tank - Pattern Test



I recently had the privilege of testing the Joey tank by Made Again Patterns. I love the mission of this company; Jessica designs her patterns with refashioning in mind. I have been recycling fabric since I was a 4-Her and love that Made Again gives a bit of structure to beginning refashioners.


All of the fabric and the thread that I used for this project were sourced from ReCraft Indy, a secondhand store for craft and hobby supplies with a focus on sustainability and environmentalism. And the button was an extra from a RTW sweater that was long since moved on from my closet.


I made my own bias tape for this pattern, sewing together pieces of what I think were once quilting scrapes. It was fun and didn't effect the appearance of the final product in any significant way since I positioned the joining seams at the same location on each arm.

I also appreciate that measuring the length needed for shoulder straps was included in the pattern instructions. Nothing is worse than constantly having to yank your straps back up all day!


This pattern is geared toward an "advanced beginner" and it was a fun weekend sew I would recommend to anyone looking for an easy, breezy summer tank. Just imagine all the refashioning possibilities!



Time estimate: 4 hours
Size: Small
Fabric used: cotton, unsure of specific!
Care instructions: cold water wash, line dry (just to be safe)
Cost: $3 estimated
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Marissa
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Floral Tank Top

Floral Tank Top



I recently went home for the weekend where I spent hours with my mom looking through her collection of sewing patterns. She let me borrow more than a dozen and my sewing queue is full. Be on the look out for a few vintages pieces in the near future!


This pattern is one that I discovered in her collection, Simplicity A2116. It's a pajama pattern, but I love how classic the shape of this tank top is and knew it would be a quick sew. And Mom had a bundle of So Sew English fabric she was willing to share! You know how I'm a sucker for a good floral.


The pattern instructions called for turning under and top stitching all raw edges, but Mom and I wanted to add a neckband and armbands for a more classic look. To create these pattern pieces we measured the arm holes by standing a measuring tape on its edge and reduced the length to 87.5% of the opening length and adding 1/2" for the seam allowance. I sewed these in first and liked the finished product, but it was a tight fit, so I tried 90% of the opening length plus 1/2" seam allowance for the neckband. Although it was easier to add the neckband than the armbands, I would like the neckband to fit a bit more snugly and would reduce it to 87.5% if making this tank top again. The neckband and each armband was cut at 2" in depth.


I was able to try a new, more decorative stretch stitch on the hem of the tank top and serged all interior seams with nylon stretch thread on both loopers. This tank top is sewn to be lived in, and I'm sure it will get a lot of wear this summer.


Time estimate: 3 hours
Size: 10
Fabric used: knit blend from So Sew English scrap bundle, unsure about specifics!
Care instructions: cold water wash, line dry (just to be safe)
Cost: free to me!
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Marissa
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Mimi G High-Waisted Skinny Pants

Mimi G High-Waisted Skinny Pants



I recently made Mimi G's high-waisted skinny pants, Simplicity 8655, using stretch gabardine suiting from Minerva Crafts and LOVE how they turned out! Thankfully I was able to sew along with Mimi herself through her amazing sew along video on Youtube. You can read all about my experience making these pants on Minerva's blog here!

Now I've made both the tie-front top and pants from the same pattern, both using Minerva fabrics. You can see my tie-front wrap top blog post here. I love both of these pieces, together or separately!


Pictures by Sara at saraballenger.
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Marissa
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