At the end of January I had the privilege of attending the Heartland ASDP's annual sewing retreat. I was so excited to go and take a few difficult projects I needed help getting the perfect fit on. There are a multitude of talented sewists in the Indianapolis area, including Evelyn Cummings my Palmer Pletsch fitting instructor, and I had access to them all weekend!
One of the difficult projects I took to the retreat was the Sewaholic Granville button up shirt. I knew I needed to add width across the middle of the back of this pattern following my first time making it. I started by increasing the size of the top half of the shirt to a size four and grading down to a size two through the waist and the hips. Other adjustments I made included a 1 1/4" sway back adjustment and shortening the sleeves by 3".
The gray Cotton + Steel gingham I purchased for the project was only 44" wide and I had to be very careful about how I cut out the pattern pieces. Since I had so little fabric, and as a fun fashion statement, I decided to use a cotton floral print on the interior cuffs and collar stand and cut the sleeve placket on the diagonal. I was also able to borrow one of women's simflex sewing gauges to perfectly place my buttons down the front of my new shirt.
I had less difficulty with the collar stand this time around, but did find it still had a bit more fabric than I needed. The only thing I would change in making this pattern again would be to move the shoulder seams up about 1/4". All-in-all I love this top and it will surely see a lot of wear. The back has enough room for me to move in while still having the slim, fitted look I desired. The peek-a-boo pops of floral and the sleeve placket are my favorite elements.
I have really enjoyed making the same pattern for a second time. I like the second version much better than the first and finally getting to this make has encouraged me to make more patterns a second or third time to achieve the best fit possible. Do you have a handful of tried and true patterns?
Time estimate: 16 hours
Size: 2-4
Fabric used: 1 1/2 yards Cotton + Steel gray gingham, 1 yard The Alexander Henry Fabrics Collection 2014 floral (out of stock)
Care instructions: machine wash/tumble dry low
Cost to make
Pattern: $25, previously used
Cotton + Steel gingham fabric: $18
The Alexander Henry Fabrics Collection 2014 floral fabric: from my stash
*thread from stash, buttons gifted
TOTAL: $43
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